This is problematic for suppressors as they create a lot of back pressure. The M1A was tuned specifically for reliability and accuracy, not adjustability. The M1A vents gas out of a port near the muzzle that faces downwards, bleeding off excess gas as the bullet leaves the barrel. The author demonstrates how the M1A can be suppressed with the use of a Delta P Design muzzle adaptor. The gas system is fixed and non-adjustable, and the muzzle threads - or lack thereof - are not standard 5/8×24, which is what is needed for most muzzle devices. I think it's a nicer look than a forward-mounted red dot.How can you make one of the all-time coolest guns in history even cooler? By adding a suppressor, obviously! Now, you might be saying, Jeremy I rarely see suppressors on the M1A why is that? I am glad you asked! In this article and video above I’ll be going over how exactly we accomplished this task, some benefits and some of the downsides.įirst off, let’s understand how the M1A operates. The M1A line was never designed from the factory to be suppressed. If you need to switch to irons then just remove the red dot whether QD or with a wrench if your mount isn't QD. You could also use a traditional scope mount, and mount a red dot on that. It will dissipate heat better and is low enough to allow for cowitnessing and also has additional rails up front if needed. Use a paint pen to mark the front sight screw, front sight position, and windage knob position.Īn Ultimak scope mount is superior to the standard mount. Set it so that the marking "2" lines up when it's at the number of clicks for your 200 yard zero. Then using a flathead screwdriver turn the elevation knob screw until the elevation knob moves on its own. Determine the number of elevation clicks needed for your zero. You use an allen wrench to loosen the front sight lock screw. Move the front sight leaving the windage knob in the middle. Set the windage knob to the middle position. It should take a decent amount of force to turn the windage knob. Zeroing procedure: Ensure windage nut is tight. You should use oil to prevent corrosion on the metal parts.ĭon't get an extended bolt release. I recommend the grease for the moving parts though.
M1A SOCOM CQB MALFUNCTION MANUALS
The manuals advise oil in cold temperatures.
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It was found in the South Pacific that grease just stayed longer if rain got on it. You can lightly grease the operating rod so that it slides in the guide nicely, as well as the side of the barrel if the op rod is hitting it. The bolt should be lightly greased on the rear and top of the lugs, and the two shiny points on the top of the bolt. Make sure to cover the op rod tab in grease. You never grease or oil the chamber of any gun. Generally you don't need to do that unless you're replacing parts or maybe cleaning a Garand after shooting corrosive ammo. You push on the ejector and rotate the tool to force the extractor up. The combo tool is used for disassembling the bolt. Also buy gas piston cleaning drills and a bolt roller greaser. Put it around the gas cylinder lock and then use the combo tool to loosen the gas plug. View QuoteYou need to purchase a gas cylinder lock wrench. Who has mounted a red dot on the scope mount, and do you like it? If you have a low profile red dot like a RMR or Burris FastFire can you still use the iron sights? I really like the irons on this rifle so I want to be able to use them too.ĭoes the Scout style scope mount which is mounted right on the barrel get too hot for optics and cook them? I'm thinking of using either a Sig Romeo or Burris Fastfire III red dot, so decent optics but not Trijiocn RMR or Leopold quality. General question - why do the M1 and M1A use/need grease, while other rifles don't?Īm I correct in saying that the bolt catch is only used to lock the bolt back, and not used to release the bolt? How about if I get an extended bolt catch - do those allow for releasing the bolt or just easier lockback of the bolt? What places should I grease - the locking lugs on the bolt, the bolt roller? Anyplace else? From the factory the underside of the barrel in the chamber area seemed greased as well. what slots or holes are used for various tasks)? Would it be easier to remove if I fired it and tried with it still hot, like taking a suppressor off?īesides taking the gas plug off, what else does the combo tool do, and how (i.e.
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I'd like to take it off before I fire it as its only going to get harder to remove with carbon build up. I've not shot it yet, but it feels nice in the hands, I like the balance and shortness of it, and the sights are excellent, as I knew they would be from my M1 Garand experience.Īny secret to getting the gas plug off on a new rifle? I have the combo tool to try to unscrew it with, but it's not budging with me just holding onto the rifle as a backup tong. I went ahead and bought it - too good a deal at 1200 bucks shipped to pass up.